Friday, August 3, 2012
Louisbourg, NS to Margaree Forks, NS = 309 km
I had a fantastic sleep and wonderful experience at The Spinning Wheel. I spoke to the home owner during breakfast, she is one busy lady. She also has a kennel she runs, and works 2 waitressing jobs to make ends meet before the tourism season is over in October. I cannot compliment the B&B enough. Its worth the drive to her place, even if it is practically in the middle of nowhere, however ideally located near the Fortress. I got to the Fortress and boarded the bus. Due to security reasons apparently, you can't just drive up to it. First visit the admin building and then shuttled off to the Fortress. I caught up with the walking tour a little bit late but it was worth it. Learned things about the Fortress I would have never otherwise have known. After our walking tour it was time to take in a little demonstration of soldiers firing real muskets, and firing a cannon. Awesome to see and hear! The French soldiers were playing their flutes and drums. It's a Fortress, not a Fort. A Fortress is a walled town. This was a walled town at one point. Mother nature is reclaiming her landscape. There are many ruins, many left untouched for over 200 years, which I took at 45 minute walk to see. The trail lead me close to the waters edge and I put my hand officially into the Atlantic Ocean. Just about lost my footing and put my whole body in, but I did it! Prolly not smart of me walk down a rocky ledge all by my lonesome...but again, I can be dumb sometimes. My whole fortress experience was rushed. They aren't kidding when they recommend taking a full day to see everything. I'm so happy I did at least have a half day there. But my schedule keeps pressing on and by early afternoon I was on the bus back to the parking lot. I made my way up to Sydney via 22, and over to Englishtown to jump on a quick ferry. Apparently it saved me a half hour of driving. I promptly jumped onto the Cabot Trail from there.
The start of the trail was fabulous. Reminded me exactly of my trip to the Tail of the Dragon on the motorcycle, except this was on the side of a cliff by the ocean. There were a few nice parts along the trail that were quick switchback like, but for the most part, big long sweepers, and hilly. I stopped for lunch at Main Street Restaurant in Ingonish and had fish and chips and a cold Corona while sitting on the patio. The time on my watch already was alluding for quittin' time, but I was nowhere near my end destination. I had 2 hikes I very desperately wanted to do. The Mcintosh Brook (which was ok.....small waterfall, almost not worth bothering to hike in for), and the Skyline hike. I was running so low on time and daylight, but I had to try to do the Skyline trail. If I could make it there and back before sunset (estimated to complete the loop - 2-3 hours) I'd be extremely pleased. I walked in on my own after asking a group of girls about the trail. I eventually caught up with a private tour, so at least I wasn't the only one on the trail. There were several people still leaving as well. I stopped at a small lookout and thought about turning around because I knew daylight was wasting away. I pressed on a little further and was incredibly rewarded. A huge boardwalk opened up and went down along the side the cliff. The view was magnificent, the wind fierce. I did indeed catch the sunset. I must have stuck around there for easily a half hour. Its not a place one can easily leave, which I'm getting nearly overcome with at a few spots on this trip. Still no meece. The group caught back up with me. They mentioned they saw one, actually a young one on the slope near where I was standing. But my view point was such that moosey was invisible to me. They don't exist. I'm certain. I walked back to the car and got in. Had to turn the headlights on so it was officially dark o'clock. Finished driving the remaining part of the Cabot Trail, pretty much just north of Cheticamp south to Margaree where I now sit at the Margaree Riverview Inn. The drive here, while a little dark, was so amazing. I could see lighthouses, small towns lit up, a full moon reflecting on the water. Just another magical way to see Nova Scotia. Could barely find this Inn, and its a little rough. It has everything for minimum basic needs. Good thing I'm not sticking around long. Another gruelling day tomorrow onward to PEI. I skipped the Fiddle Concert and Square Dance, its 15 minutes out of town and I barely have anything left in my tank. Tomorrow is another day and I bet they will have fiddles elsewhere on my journey.
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